On arrival Jane and I were firstly impressed by the light, contemporary d้cor, which has transformed the interior. The right hand room, previously dominated by the pool table, is now the restaurant and the bar has been shortened to create more space. This is where we sat, close to a welcome real fire.

The menu offered a great choice of real British food. I plumped for Cambridgeshire Pheasant whilst Jane chose Grilled Fillet of Cornish Plaice – both £14.95. We were quickly given a bowl of home-made bread with the Guinness bread standing out for its almost black colour and stouty taste. The plates soon arrived, beautifully presented, and we tucked in. My pheasant came wrapped in bacon and was fantastically rich and succulent, a perfect accompaniment to my pint of Jolly Fellows (or should that be the other way round?). It came with sprouts, root puree, game jus and perfect roast spuds – absolutely terrific. Jane found her fish to be superbly cooked, its moistness and softness contrasting well with the hazelnut and gruyere crust. Jane loves her leeks so the creamed example hit the spot as did the hand cut chips, which came in a novel stack.

For pudding Jane had Chocolate and Chestnut Torte with home- made vanilla ice cream, which she pronounced to be delicious: the chestnut was a perfect foil for the chocolate preventing it from being too sweet. As an ice-cream freak I had to go for the home-made cranberry ice-cream, despite cranberries not being high in my fruit chart. It was sumptuous, a truly full bodied ice-cream, a zillion miles from Mr Whippy.

As you'll have gathered by now, we were greatly impressed with our grub, but also with the friendly service and comfortable surroundings. For a large village Cottenham isn't blessed with places to eat, the other three pubs being mainly for drinkers and just the curry house in the old White Horse as a specialist food outlet so the Chequers ought to do as well as it deserves to.

Ah yes, the beer. The two hand pumps currently offer one or two ales from the village's own Fellows Brewery – see the article elsewhere – so this is another excellent reason for visiting.